Leaking chimney repair for homes in New Tampa

The places water gets into a chimney

Chimney leaks start at a handful of parts, and our pros check each one on a leak visit, working from the top down.

The inspection is free, and the estimate lists each part that needs work on a separate line, which shows exactly what the leak repair involves.

• The cap and the open flue it should cover
• The crown on top of the masonry
• The flashing where the chimney meets the roof
• Brick faces and mortar joints on every side
• The chase top and siding on a framed chimney

Water piling up behind a wide chimney

Everything the roof above collects runs into the uphill face of the chimney, and in a downpour it can stand there. For chimneys wider than 30 inches, section R903.2.2 of the Florida residential code requires a cricket on the ridge side to divert that flow around the masonry.

Leaks at the back of a wide chimney often trace to back flashing that is too short or to a missing cricket. Our pros measure the chimney, and a cricket is quoted as its own job where one is needed.

Spalled and cracked brick

Brick that has shed its face, or cracked through, can take in more water than sound brick. Spalled units near the top of the chimney and at the roof line are frequent signs that water has been getting in for a while.

Our pros replace failed bricks with a suitable match and repoint around them. The work is priced by area in your estimate, so you can see what the masonry side of the leak repair involves.

Drying out after the repair

Masonry, framing and drywall hold water for a while after a leak is fixed. A stain may fade slowly, and a damp smell can linger until the materials dry. A fan or a dehumidifier in the room can help, and wet insulation in the attic may need replacing instead of being left to dry.

Our pros tell you what to expect in your home and how long to leave the area before repainting, so a finish does not go on over damp material and blister later.